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Leah Eskin

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Food styling: Joan Moravek. Photo: E. Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune.

Food styling: Joan Moravek. Photo: E. Jason Wambsgans/Chicago Tribune.

Afternoon delight

July 29, 2018

“Ticklemore, peas and lovage.” The message, dispatched from a London hotel suite, made me blush. It sounded sweet and naughty and terribly British.

My world traveler, once home, insisted I had to try it. Cautious and curious, I acquiesced. He dropped his plans, dashed out the door and returned with a paper-wrapped packet of goat cheese. Imagine my surprise.

Ticklemore, I learned, is a ripe, firm and pleasurable goat cheese. Paired with peas dressed in the summer herbs chervil and lovage, it makes for a languid afternoon distraction. Though not the sort I had imagined.

I pulled together a version from staples on hand — mint, parsley and lemon. Less cheeky, more hometown. Still, lovely. And well worth working up an appetite.

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